Suppose after charging a 3.7 µF capacitor to 6 V, you connect it to the second uncharged capacitor of 12 µF. What voltage will your voltmeter read across the second capacitor after repeating the charge sharing process two times? Express the answer with one decimal place.

The resistor, ammeter and lamp are in series Explain why all three components have exactly the same current
Isn’t it because they all have the same resistance

My Blazer shuddered and died at a stoplight. I tried restarting it, and it stalled out again. At this time, all the lights worked, and the engine would try to turn over, even though it stalled shortly after wards.
I had it towed to a Firestone where they ran diagnostics and found a heap of electrical problems (ignition coil, cap and rotor, spark plugs, wires…).
That is all stuff I can do myself, significantly cheaper, so I just had it towed to my house to work on it.
When it got here, none of the electronics worked, even before I touched it. I checked the battery with my multimeter, and it read a little over 11 Volts, so it should be good. It also looks like everything is hooked into the battery that should be (but there might be something I’m missing).

What could they have done to make there be no power, and how can I undo it?

Thank you.

1:generator
2:electric motor
3:voltmeter
4:superconductor

I bought a multimeter and wanted to test a AAA battery (for fun). I connected the red banana plug into the red slot (V-ohm-mA) and the black banana plug into the COM port. Then turned the dial to 20 vDC and put the red prong to the positive end of the battery and the black prong to the negative. However, the LCD outputs nothing (0.00). So i tried plugging the black banana plug into the 10A slot and then it works and it outputs 1.5 V. is my multimeter faulty or am i doing something wrong? Thanks for your help
its a craftsman digital multimeter model 82141

I recently disconnected my subwoofer to fit a large item in the back of my car, and forgot how it was hooked up originally. I have it all hooked up correctly again except for two wires: a red one and a black one. There are two places to put them on the subwoofer: the ground slot and the power slot. Is there an easy way to tell which is which without having to hook up a voltmeter? Is there typically a universal color for each? Thanks.

Hello, as i said before, the front lights did turn on (on high and low light modes) without a problem, but one day i went to the market, and when i started my car again they don’t turn on again; the funny thing is that when i, instead of turning the lights on, make light changes they do turn on, but i have to hold the stick where you turn the lights on. I already checked the fuses beneath the steering wheel and all of them seems to be just fine (i also measured them with a digital multimeter). My car is 93 Toyota Tercel. Thanks in advance. // Hola, como he dicho antes, las luces delanteros encendian (en modos de luz de alta y baja) sin ningún problema, pero un día me fui al mercado, y cuando encendi mi carro de nuevo ya no encienden de nuevo, lo gracioso es que cuando, en lugar de encender las luces, hago los cambios de luz si encienden, pero tengo que sostener la palanquita donde se encienden las luces. Ya he comprobado los fusibles debajo del volante y todos ellos parecen estar bien (yo los he medido con un multímetro digital). Mi coche es un Toyota Tercel del 93. Gracias de antemano.
Something i forgot, when i turn the lights on the clock backlight fades a little (like if there is a shortcircuit). And yes, it could be the light switch, since sometimes it was on high mode (when it was on low mode) and if i moved the switch a little it fixed.

Hi everybody I have a 99 oldsmobile aurora that will only go into low and reverse. A couple of times when it was cold I was able to drop it to 3rd and then into drive and drove it up and down the street until it warmed up and came out of gear. Ive replaced the 2 shift solenoids in the valve body along with the tranny fluid and filter. During the drive everything shifted smooth and as it was supposed same as after i did the solenoids. I have also checked the shift position sensor (neutral safety swich) and when put to a multimeter im only getting power off of 2 wires out of 6. I was thinking that maybe it only puts power to it as you are actually changing the gears All the help is greatly appreciated.

Which one would be more precise?